
One day, a friend caught me by surprise and asked, “Hey, shall we go see the puffins on Skomer Island?” Curious, I started researching and discovered that Skomer Island is a true natural paradise. Located off the coast of Wales, it is one of the most important sites in Europe for bird nesting, especially for the Atlantic puffin. With its breathtaking cliffs, unspoiled landscapes, and rich wildlife, Skomer Island offers a unique experience for nature lovers and birdwatching enthusiasts. From spotting puffins up close to exploring dramatic coastal scenery, a visit to Skomer is a must for anyone looking to connect with wildlife in its natural habitat.
What a puffin is: a guide to the Atlantic puffin
The Atlantic puffin, belonging to the auk family, lives along the coasts of the North Atlantic and can be found in countries such as Iceland, Norway, Ireland, and the United Kingdom. It is a small bird, reaching a maximum length of 30 cm and a weight of around 600 grams. Its plumage is dense and waterproof, perfect for keeping the body warm during the cold season. The neck, back, and wings are black, while the underside of the body is white, with pale feathers on the sides of the face. The legs and feet change color: dull yellow during the coldest winter months and bright orange during the breeding season. The most distinctive feature of the Atlantic puffin is its wide, flat, triangular beak, colored in vivid shades of red, yellow, and blue. Because of this striking coloration, it is often nicknamed the “sea parrot” or “clown of the sea.” Its wings are small, and to fly, they beat up to 400 times per minute, reaching speeds of approximately 88 km/h. Puffins are also excellent swimmers, able to dive and catch fish up to 60 meters deep. They spend most of their lives at sea, resting on the waves when not hunting. In the wild, the Atlantic puffin can live up to around 20 years.

Skomer island

puffin
THE BREEDING OF THE PUFFIN
Atlantic puffins land every spring and summer on the coasts and islands of the North Atlantic to form breeding colonies. They often prefer steep cliffs and rocky summits, where they build their nests, lining them with feathers or grass. Using their strong beaks and feet, they can dig burrows in the ground that may reach up to one meter deep, providing protection from predators and harsh weather. The female lays a single egg, which both parents take turns incubating. When the chick hatches, mom and dad alternate feeding it, bringing small fish to the nest until it is ready to become independent. This meticulous care ensures that each new generation of puffins grows strong and prepared to thrive in the open sea.
SKOMER ISLAND
You might be wondering, “Where can we find the Atlantic puffins?” The answer is on Skomer Island, one of the small gems off the coast of Pembrokeshire in South Wales. The island is tiny, just 3 km², made mostly of volcanic rock and surrounded by shaded inlets, offshore rocks, and sheltered bays. Skomer is a nature reserve managed by the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales and is open to the public from April to October, with access limited to only 250 people per day. These restrictions are essential to protect the island’s incredible wildlife. Today, it is possible to book in advance, but when I visited, the famous rule of “first come, first served” applied. My friend, my inseparable camera, and I arrived at Lockley Lodge on a beautiful July morning around 6:30… and incredibly, there were already about fifty people ahead of us! After an exciting wait, we were assigned a boat departing at 10:30 with a return scheduled for 15:30. The crossing takes about fifteen minutes, and even from the boat, you are mesmerized: hundreds of birds fly above our heads, while tiny black-and-white specks animate the island’s surface. Upon arrival, after climbing more than 80 steps from where the boat dropped us off, we were welcomed by volunteers who explained some important rules. The most crucial one? Stay on the marked paths, as the nests are close to the cliff edges and the ground could give way, damaging the eggs. In my opinion, the best time to observe the Atlantic puffins is from May to mid-July, when nesting activity is at its peak and the spectacle is truly unforgettable.

puffin detail

puffin
THE WICK
After the guide’s explanation, we started walking along the marked trail. The island offers many breathtaking viewpoints, but the one I highly recommend not to miss is “The Wick.” Here, the Atlantic puffins come incredibly close, walking just a few centimeters from you, completely unafraid. For me, as a photography enthusiast, it was a magical moment: being able to observe and capture these little birds up close is a truly unique experience. With the bright colors of their beaks, their swift movements, and the liveliness of their behavior, every shot becomes special. Walking among the puffins at The Wick is an unforgettable memory—a rare, up-close encounter with nature that few have the privilege to experience.
…NOT JUST PUFFIN
The hours on the island flew by as we walked along the trails, immersed in this true natural paradise. I had the opportunity to take dozens of photos, capturing every detail of the breathtaking landscapes and the fascinating behaviors of the Atlantic puffins. Before heading back, we were also lucky enough to spot grey seals, adding another unforgettable spectacle to the experience. Every corner of the island, every coastal view, and every encounter with wildlife made us feel part of a world far removed from the everyday hustle. When it was time to leave, saying goodbye was bittersweet, but the memories and emotions from this excursion will remain unforgettable. A unique, extraordinary, and, I would say, magical experience, capable of offering moments of pure wonder and a deep connection with nature.
LOGISTICS
ADDRESS: Lockley Lodge is located in Martin’s Haven, near Marloes in Pembrokeshire SA62 3BJ
WHEN TO GO: the island is open from April to October
HOW TO GET THERE:
- By car: B4327 from Haverfordwest to Dale. After Mullock Bridge (near Dale) take right hand turn signposted Marloes and Skomer Embarkation. Follow road through Marloes to Martin’s Haven car park.
- by train: Stations at Haverfordwest (12 miles/19km), Milford Haven (9 miles/14.5km) and Pembroke Dock (13 miles/21km)
- by bus: Service 400 Puffin Shuttle, from St David’s to Marloes Haven
TICKETS:
- The daily tickets are purchased directly at the Lockley Lodgeat a cost of 40 £ per person, including boat trip, admission and stay, access is limited to 250 people per day so I recommend arriving very early in the morning.
- the departure, by boat, is from Martins Haven. In peak season there are three times available. Since the trip lasts only about 15 min, even if you suffer from seasickness, I assure you it is worth it!
WHERE TO SLEEP: for those who want to spend the night on the island, there is also a hostel, but be careful, because it has only 16 places, so I recommend you to book in time. There is also an equipped kitchen in the hostel, but there is no Wi-Fi. For info: islands@welshwildlife.org
TIPS:
- bring cash, as there are no Atms on the island and it is not possible to pay transport with cards
- food and water since there are no refreshments
- recommended clothing: comfortable shoes and trekking clothing, a jacket in case of rain
Related article: Grey Seals of Norfolk


Sheila Beverly
Last summer I and granddaughter were walking in a park in Middletown De. A bird was in grass making very loud noises. We walked up to it. At first we thought it was hurt because it was sitting on belly. It because gliding in grass but didn’t fly away. We always take bread with us. It would pick it up and drop in different spots. It did fly over across the street like 3 times and came right back. All of a sudden this bird started during tricks on the ground. It did flips and glilded are. It looked pat duck. We went back 3 evening and it was bck. We named it Walter.. We have looked in a few books and talked about this amazing bird looking and the tricks it done for us. It was a puffin. I have a video of it
Sheila Beverly
How did this puffin get to United States in the state of Delaware? We still talk about this entertaining bird. I am 62 yrs old and love birds. I have never seen such a smart colorful bird before. Maybe one day with luck we can travel to Skomer Island to see many of them together. There is like 3 man-made water ways in area but not a lot of water. Where did this Puffin come from. It was like once in a lifetime thing for us to see in the city.. Such a delightful day for us. I still look at my phone video which is not that clear but it’s a part of me and grandchild’s memory… It will stay in our hearts forever…