The first trace of the existence of this building dates back to the Roman times. It is believed during that period, in the area around the current Capriva del Friuli, a watchtower and a furnace were built. Later, a villa, as evidenced by the discovery of some ornamental objects. Instead, the construction of the current manor seems to date back to the thirteenth century, by the will of the Ungrispach family. The medieval era of Spessa was distinguished by the alternating events that involved the Patriarchate of Aquileia and the Counts of Gorizia for the control of the territory. Until 1420, when the area came under the control of Venice and from 1528, the Habsburgs. The seventeenth century was an unstable century, as the area was a constant theatre of wars and disputes. While the eighteenth century saw the resurgence of social, cultural and economic activities thanks mainly to the impetus desired by Charles VI of Habsburg from 1719.

During this new “Golden Age”, the castle saw within its walls the presence of some notable characters including Giacomo Casanova. The Venetian Knight, in 1772 was in Trieste waiting for the Inquisitors to grant him permission to return to Venice. So during a theatrical performance he met the Gorizia count Luigi Torriano who invited him to spend the autumn of 1773 in his country house, the castle of Spessa. Once there, not to deny his fame as a great amateur, Casanova met Sgualda, a widow in the service of the count who soon became his mistress and their meetings took place at night, in secret. Then, one day, the Torriano, also in love with the widow without being paid, surprised her at the end of the umpteenth night of passion and began to beat her. Casanova, hearing the screams, ran to the aid of the woman managing to free her from the clutches of the Count, with whom he fought and managed to prevail. After this episode Giacomo was forced to leave the manor of Spessa, which from the nineteenth century saw the succession of different noble families and as many restorations. The last of which has transformed it into an elegant Wine and Resort surrounded by a magnificent garden surrounded by the vineyards of the estate. There are memories of Giacomo Casanova at the entrance with his statue while in the park there is a literary walk where there are phrases and episodes of life at the castle written by the Knight.

Once you leave the castle, the path is easily recognizable by signs in the shape of roe deer. The first part of the route is slightly uphill and then climbs in a more accentuated way up to the vineyards. Until you reach one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the heart of the Collio, called “Gran Cru”. Along the path there are several variants that lead to interesting destinations such as the Preval plain or the vineyards of Pradis and the church in La Subida. My walking companions and I have continued towards this last destination, which generally represents the end stage of this small path. From the “Gran Cru”our steps crossed a forest, a source of shade and great relief if there is a day of sun like the one we found. In different places the forest, every now and then, opens to beautiful views of the vineyards and in the space between two abandoned houses, there is also a table and wooden benches where you can stop.

From here, a steep descent leads to a country resort in La Subida, surrounded by greenery between the vineyards and the forest. Originally, this place was a modest peasant tavern that in the 80s was qualified and then enhanced by Loredana and Josko Sirk. When Collio was becoming an internationally recognized place for the goodness of its wines and for the genuine rusticity of its taverns. For the return journey you can choose whether to return to the castle through the same way or if to continue towards Russiz Inferiore on a flat asphalt road for about 3km. Along the vineyards and the best estates in the area including Villa Russiz. My friends and I couldn’t not come back without drinking a good glass of wine first. After a short search, finally, we found a lovely agriturismo called “Orzan”, where we tasted an excellent Collio wine before returning to the castle of Spessa where we had parked the car.